Returning to Spain and Portugal 2024

 We’ve really enjoyed our stay in Evora. And so lovely to pack up in the dry without too much sand and dust. We go on our first toll road. Virtually the only ones on it although it costs 11 euros. Simon enjoys the freedom. I drive for a bit and then we stop at a nasty fuel station to eat our sandwiches. There is a smell of horse. The final lap after about 4 hours gets us to Salamanca where we started. It’s raining and the restaurant is fully booked. We resort to M&S curry and lentils and actually eat outside by the evening. Our last night in the van. What an epic time we have had. We’re now planning next years route. Our ferry tomorrow is delayed by a few hours due to technical reasons but we should be home in time for bed. 

 The campsite is getting much fuller and we talk to an English couple who have travelled a lot round Spain in their van over the years. Ideas for next year perhaps. We cycle into Evora again and explore an impressive church and the chapel of bones a rather eerie place with walls made of bones and skulls allegedly of the founding monks. Then up to the impressive Cathedral with an impressive cloister and fine views from the roof. We wander the cobbled streets of this attractive old town and browse some pottery shops and find some local souvenirs before lunch at a local restaurant recommended in the guide book. We’ve booked a table and for once we get it right and feel rather snug at the number of people who are turned away. It’s a small place, very authentic and in an unprepossessing back street. There is no menu they just bring you the set meal of the day and there is lots of it! A variety of starters including olives, salami, salad, mushrooms in garlic, chicken and pork bits and ch...

 The foghorn has been busy overnight. We wake to damp and heavy mist and everything is rather damp as we pack up. We drive off and need the fog lights on for at least half an hour. Further inland it begins to clear and we find ourselves back in the Alentejo wilderness with vineyards, fruit trees and cork oaks many with freshly peeled bark. We’ve chosen to avoid tolls and the route is certainly rural with a number of pot holes and tree roots causing lumps in the road. Simon drives very well and we enjoy the scenic route. We stop briefly for supplies before arriving at the campsite at Évora and find a good pitch. It’s so nice to be warm and dry! Lunch by the van and then we cycle 2 km into the old town. Évora is the capital city of the Alentejo and we admire Roman remains and a beautiful Church inlaid with tiles. We tab the pottery shops and buy some bowls and then enjoy a glass of local wine in a side street before pedalling home for bread and cheese.. and wine. 

 A moist and misty start to the day. It dries up a bit and we walk southwards along the Fisherman’s Path for an hour or so. Despite being overcast the cliff top dunes look beautiful with the autumnal colours. We pass several small coves and reach an isthmus of sand and an old fortification near a small island. All would look idyllic in sunshine. Back to base for lunch by the van which is nice. More and more people are arriving and it feels really quite crowded now. The drizzle starts again so we read in the van and then by the pool for a bit. Beginning to feel like we’d rather be at home really! We eat at the camp restaurant which was recommended in the guidebook. Nice atmosphere but unusual fusion type menu and probably not that great. We’ve decided to head inland tomorrow. 

 We wake to the sound of drips on the roof of the van. It’s not exactly raining but there is a heavy sea mist and everything is quite wet. It’s warm however. We pack up at a leisurely pace and then wander into town to buy some local wine and some fruit from the covered market. We then head up the coast, only half an hour or so to Porto Covo. When we arrive at the campsite the access road is closed for roadworks and we are told to return after 1pm. We park the van, have a coffee and pastel de Nata and explore the town. It’s pretty but quite developed with a lot of building work in progress. And it’s still very misty so we’re probably not seeing it at its best. We check in and find a pitch. It’s pretty full infact and getting fuller. After bread and cheese we wander along the coast and see the local coves. We sit on one for a while but it starts to drizzle so we move on. The evening is still and warm and we cook Tuna Pasta and eat outside by candlelight. 

 It’s a warm night. No fleece or blanket needed. We decide to go back to the same beach as yesterday so cycle off on the main road this time. We have an early dip as the waves are manageable. Still exhilarating. No life guards as it’s now October. We sit in the same place and enjoy the peace. I’m very happy reading but Simon is a bit restless. I think he prefers a new adventure each day! Back at base for showers before we head out for supper. A busy restaurant recommended in our guide book. Good atmosphere and lovely food. Simon has skate stew and I have steak with garlic sauce and hand cooked crisps. We also have a bottle of local Costa decVincentino Syrah which is particularly delicious.